Already fixed C2 and spent nigh there

Aldo verso C2

04/16/2010
The expedition is going well and fast. After our arrival in BC, the work to fix it properly and the Pusha ceremony, the 13th we started our action on the mountain. We went in 7 hours directly to C2, arranged 2 good platforms for our 2 tends and spent the night there. It had been not an easy nigh but we felt good without any physical problems. The day after in 3,5 hours we went down directly to base camp. We were of course a bit tired but we recover rapidly and now we are ready for the second round. In fact tomorrow the sherpas will return to C2 carrying all the equipment for Camp 3 and we will follow them 1 day later to spend 2 more nights at C2. It is still impossible to go to C3 because there are no fix ropes and the other expedition are proceeding with different time except our russian friend that are in our same point…

Aldo nell

04/16/2010
Già installato e pernottato a Campo 2

La spedizione procede a passo spedito. Dopo aver installato il campo base e svolto la cerimonia buddista Pusha, è arrivato finalmente il momento dell’azione sulla montagna. Il giorno 13 mattina, sfruttando l’accurato acclimatamento svolto nelle 3 settimane precedenti, lungo la valle del Khumbu, con ripetute puntate a quote di 6180 (Island peak), 5680 (Khala pattar), 5800 (Pumori C1), siamo andati direttamente a campo 2 dell’Everest in 7 ore, installato due tende, e pernottato a quota 6400 m. Insieme ad una coppia di alpinisti russi siamo stati i primi a installare quel campo ed a passarci la notte. Non si può dire che sia stata una notte di sonno beato e sogni d’oro, ma comunque abbiamo passato la notte senza particolari malesseri o emicrania. Il giorno successivo in circa 3,5 ore siamo rientrati direttamente al Campo base. Ovviamente la fatica si è fatta sentire ma il recupero è stato veloce e completo. Domani i nostri sherpa porteranno a campo due il materiale necessario per attrezzare campo 3 a 7300 m e noi li seguiremo il giorno dopo per passare altre due notti a Campo due. Il Campo 3 infatti non è ancora raggiungibile perchè nessuno ha ancora attrezzato quel tratto di salita. I tempi con cui le varie spedizioni si muovono sono infatti molto diversi ….

Verso C2

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Base Camp 5350 m

04-10-2010
We spent our third night here in the Everest Base Camp at 5350 m. We feel very good and yesterday we continued our acclimatization process going to Camp 1 of Pumori at 5800 m. From that point we had a fantastic view on Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse that are quite dry…. In these days the sherpas are finishing to fix rope and ladders in the Khumbu icefall and the work will continue quite fast till Camp 2. We planned to go directly to Camp 2 at 6300 m the first time we will cross the icefall. After tomorrow we will have the Bhuddist ceremony named Pusha. It is the suggested step before any step on the mountain. As usual we will follow the tradition and the suggestion…

Base Camp


10/04/2010
E’ la terza notte al Campo Base dell’Everest a 5350 m. Ci siamo sistemati bene, vicino al corso d’acqua che si origina dalla seraccata dell’ icefall. Stiamo molto bene e ieri siamo andati a far un’escursione fino a Campo 1 del Pumori a 5800 metri per mantenere l’acclimatamento e la forma maturata anche con i 6182 metri dell’Island Peak. In questi giorni gli sherpa stanno concludendo il lavoro di fissare le corde fisse e scalette nel tortuoso percorso nell’Icefall. Noi aspetteremo che il cammino sia aperto fino a Campo 2 e poi ci muoveremo salendo direttamente a quel punto situato a 6300 metri di quota. Dopodomani ci sarà la cerimonia buddista “pusha” al campo base e solo dopo di essa è “consigliabile” iniziare la salita sulla montagna delle montagne. Come sempre seguiremo la tradizione ed il consiglio del Lama e degli Sherpa.

Aldo e Simone C1 Pumori

Gokyo m. 4800

Today we had a fantastic sunny weather with clear sky. So it had been possible to have the complete view on the south-east face of Cho Oyu, climbed in 2009 by my friend Denis Urubko. We arrived in Gokyo at 4800 meters, the last village of this valley, located above a nice glacier lake. Aldo, Tamara, Alberto and I, feel very good and are trekking always together. Tomorrow our plan is to go till the high point of Gokyo Ri 5357 hoping to get good weather so we will have the fantastic view on Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. Our plan is also to come back to Gokyo at noon and continue till Dragnak 4700 m. The Day after we will climb till Cho La Pass 5350 and descent directly till Dingboche 4410 m. For sure will be the longest step of all our acclimatization trekking.

Aldo and Alberto's trekking


Oggi giornata di tempo fantastico che ci ha permesso di godere della vista della parete sud est del Cho Oyu, salita nel 2009 dall’amico e compagno Denis Urubko. Siamo arrivati a Gokyo a 4800 metri, l’ultimo villaggio di questa valle laterale dell’Everest, ubicato sopra un bellissimo lago ancora ghiacciato. Aldo, Tamara, Alberto ed io , stiamo bene e continuiamo sempre assieme il trekking di acclimatamento. Domani l’obbiettivo è di salire ai 5357 m del Gokyo Ri sperando di avere le stesse condizioni meteo di oggi in modo da poter avere la visuale su Everest, Lhotse e Makalu. Sempre domani il programma prevede poi nel pomeriggio, il trasferimento a Dragnak 4700 , alla base della salita che ci condurrà il giorno seguente al Cho La Pass 5350 m e poi direttamente a Dingboche. Quella tappa sarà di sicuro la più lunga e dura di questa fase di acclimatamento.

Gokyo

Third day in the Khumbu Valley.

Simone Moro

We spent 3 days in Kathmandu organizing the expedition, than flown to Phakding 2610 m by Helicopter due the two days cancellation of the regular flight to Lukla. Yesterday we trek to Nanche 3500 m and today we get an acclimatization walk till 400 m on the hill above Syangboche before to return in Namche again. Today we also prepared and separated the equipment that will go directly to base camp and the other that will follow us during the trekking and Island peak climb. Tamara, Aldo and I feel good. Also Alberto Magliano join the trekking but he will be back to Kathmandu after the first week of April because he has to go to Shisha Pangma.

Tamara, Aldo and Alberto

Terzo giorno nella valle del Khumbu.

Dopo 3 giorni passati a Kathmandu a preparare tutti i materiali e a svolgere la parte burocratica della spedizione, l’altro ieri siamo finalmente arrivati direttamente al villaggio di Phakding 2610 m in elicottero da Kathmandu. Non ci è stato infatti possibile prendere il volo a Lukla a causa della cancellazione di tutti i voli che si è protratta per due giorni. Ieri siamo abbiamo effettuato la prima tratta a piedi raggiungendo Namche 3500 metri, il villaggio degli sherpa.

Aldo and Dawa

Oggi giornata di acclimatamento con salita verso i 4000 metri del belvedere sopra Syangboche con rientro a Namche in mattinata . Abbiamo  effettuato la prima tratta a piedi raggiungendo Namche 3500 metri, il villaggio degli sherpa. Oggi giornata di acclimatamento con salita verso i 4000 metri del belvedere sopra Syangboche con rientro a Namche in mattinata . Abbiamo poi preparato e diviso i materiali per il campo base dell’Everest e quelli che invece ci seguiranno durante i prossimi giorni di trekking con salita all’Island Peak. Aldo e Tamara stanno bene. Anche Alberto Magliano sta bene e si è unito a noi per questa prima parte di acclimatamento prima del suo rientro a Kathmandu e trasferimento al campo base del Shisha Pangma in Tibet.

LHOTSE-EVEREST 2010, Simone back to Himalaya

This long post is the presentation of Simone new expedition to Himalaya. You will find here below all the details of the great expedition he is about to start, and that this blog will follow day by day, with images, videos, and live broadcast from the heights of the most important mountain in the world.

THE GREAT CROSSING

Simone Moro setting up Manfrotto equipment

At 8,848 meters, Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world; it stands out against the clear and ice cold skies of the Himalayas. Mount Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world (8,516 meters) and is the only giant mountain that flanks the great “roof of the world,” Mount Everest. At 8,000 meters, the south col is the place where the two mountains physically touch each other and form a large terrace over the emptiness below. For years it has been the dream of many climbers to climb either one of mountains. Now that this dream has been realized, there are still very few mountaineers who dare to attempt these mountains without oxygen and sherpas. The climbers’ newest dream is to think of climbing both mountains by crossing the south peak that bridges the two. Or to climb the mountains separately in two different and separate attempts but in the same season, in the same expedition.

For almost 30 years people have been talking about this project. Since the mid-80’s this climb has been seen as the ultimate challenge for the sport. In all of the years of the sport of climbing, no one has ever even attempted this crossing; not even with the aid of oxygen and sherpas. It is fitting that fulfilling this goal should be a project of the third millenium and taking advantage of different techniques, knowledge and approaches then those that have been available in the past.

Everest and Lhotse from an air baloon

APRIL-MAY 2010

It will be in the first part of the year that an Italian adventurer will attempt those climbs. It is not yet decided if Simone will climb Everest going back to Base camp and than attempt Lhotse along a new route or if he will be attracted in attempting the traverse…..

One man, without oxygen, will try to make a path from the base camp in Nepal to the peak of Everest, passing through the south col that connects the two mountains at 8000 meters and than 8 immediately or after 1 week along a new route) on to the peak of Lhotse. This would be a performance to stretch the range of human possibilities; it will oblige the mountaineer to an active performance of at least 4 days without oxygen above 8000 meters where biological and physical vital functions degenerate and risk stopping. It is with good reason that doctors and researchers refer to this extreme area of the mountain as the “death zone,” because any kind of permanent life is impossible.

The challenge isn’t against the mountain (which is always the victor) but is against the present limits of human endurance on earth. A simple but rigorous athletic approach will be followed: no artificial oxygen, no medicine and/or stimulants, no external help from sherpas, respect for life and the life of others, respect for the environment and willingness to deal with possible athletic defeat.

THE MOUNTAINEERS

42 year old Italian Simone Moro is a professional climber who has had completed 43 climbing expeditions outside of Europe and all of them on his own. Simone explains that his “choice to go it alone was motivated by the tragic loss of his friend and climbing partner Anatoli Boukreev in 1997, and by the impossibility of finding another companion like him.” Extreme climbing speed and staunch determination will be the two fundamental characteristics for the success of this project. Simone will limit the materials and loads he carries to the essential needs of a single person.

The mountaineer estimated a 35% possibility of successfully completing his mission and he will try to organize an effective communication plan to document and communicate during the expedition and especially the crossing.

A satellite telephone and modem, THURAYA and IMMARSAT, will enable Simone to transmit the log of the expedition in real time. Radio and TV coverage is being considered in order to allow climbing enthusiasts to follow his progress. Modern portable communication instruments would make direct contact with Simone possible at the same moment as he reaches the peaks of the two mountains.

Thanks to the experience gained from many years in the Himalayas, Simone managed to organize the eventual filming of his whole crossing. The mountaineer will climb Everest at first and than will descend to the south col at 8000 meters. The day after Simone will try to cross to the Lhotse peak descending along the normal route. The whole event will be recorded live with the benefit of a portable PC and digital camera and it will be able to be followed to any web site and TV

Expedition Map

PREPARATION AND RESEARCH

The 2010 Lhotse-Everest expedition will also and above all be an opportunity to deepen the sciences of athletic preparation and high altitudes. Contrary to a simple analytic approach of studying how the basic human body functions when passively exposed at high altitude, or even a climber who is immobile at high altitudes, the idea will be to analyze the highest level of an elite athlete’s performance (in this case where Simone reaches the peaks).

TECHNICAL ANALYSIS OF THE CLIMB

Simone’s initial idea is to climb Everest without oxygen, guiding a friend/client till the summit of Everest. Then they will return to the last camp at south col 8000 meter where 2 Sherpa and Denis Urubko will assist them. Only in that moment Simone will take the decision to continue alone traversing and climbing Lhotse or coming back all together to base camp. In this case Simone and Denis will take a full week rest and than will attempt a new route in alpine style on Lhotse.

Is important to know that the N.E. ridge of Lhotse ( from south col to summit of Lhotse) no one has ever attempted the ascent from this direction. Simone has been on the Lhotse teice and Everest three times before.

Before the crossing attempt, Simone want to begin to acclimatize himself by making a series of high altitude camps. In fact, he will climb up to 8000 meters at the south peak where he wants to spend the night in order to acclimate his body to the stress of the 8000 meters and to try out his medical equipment and assorted technical tools. After this trial phase Simone will make the real attempt on the 2 giants.

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