Again in base camp

Simone piloting toward Everest and Lhotse

05/04/2010
After one week of silence, I prepared a new report with several news. After the acclimatization period till Camp 3, we decided to fly to Kathmandu the 29th april to have 4 days rest. We flown by hely from base camp but after 2 days in the capital, Aldo get sick and he spend all night vomiting and with stomac problem. He tried in all ways to get better but the pain doesn’t stop. So yesterday we flown back to Base camp as scheduled ( I piloted the Hely of Fishtail till BC together with capt. Ashis) but Alto continued to feel bad. So this morning after a medical consultation he decided to abort the expedition and fly back to Kathmandu and Italy to investigate what really make him so sick. Doctors said that is probably an infection provocated by perished food…
So I and Denis are now “alone” in our base camp without our friend and client Aldo. Now we are organizing the next 4 weeks and decide what climb or route we want to try. On Everest and Lhotse there are a lot of projects to be realized….

Simone e Aldo today 4th may

4/5/2010
Rieccoci al campo base

Dopo una settimana in cui non avete avuto notizie di noi, è finalmente arrivato il momento di questo aggiornamento. Dopo la fase di acclimatamento e la notte passata a Campo 3 da parte di Denis e Aldo, siamo scesi a Kathmandu per 4 giorni a riposare. Anzichè scendere di un paio di giorni a piedi fino a Deboche, abbiamo deciso di volare a Kathmandu e riprenderci dai piccoli malanni e dalla stanchezza.
Purtroppo il giorno 1 maggio, verso sera, Aldo si è sentito male ed ha passato la notte in bagno con dissenteria e vomito. Nonostante le medicine e tutti gli sforzi, Aldo non è riuscito a guarire da quella che è stata diagnosticata come una infezione intestinale dovuta ad una sorta di intossicazione alimentare. Nonostante ciò ieri siamo volati nuovamente a Kathmandu al Campo base con il sottoscritto ai comandi dell’elicottero AS350 B3 della Fishtail, ma Aldo non si è ripreso e stamattina, debole e debilitato ha deciso di seguire i consigli dei medici qua presenti e farsi evacuare nuovamente in elicottero verso Kathmandu. Da li prenderà il primo volo per l’Italia per effettuare gli accertamenti clinici e le cure necessarie.
Io e Denis siamo dunque rimasti”soli” senza il nostro Aldo da accompagnare sulla cima più alta della terra. Ora stiamo riorganizzando la logistica ed i nostri piani… Pobabilmente domani o dopodomani saliremo per andare fino a colle sud 8000 m a dormire e ultimare l’acclimatamento necessario per fare qualcosa di diverso e senza ossigeno sul Lhotse o sull’Everest…

Simone and Aldo before taking off

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Already fixed C2 and spent nigh there

Aldo verso C2

04/16/2010
The expedition is going well and fast. After our arrival in BC, the work to fix it properly and the Pusha ceremony, the 13th we started our action on the mountain. We went in 7 hours directly to C2, arranged 2 good platforms for our 2 tends and spent the night there. It had been not an easy nigh but we felt good without any physical problems. The day after in 3,5 hours we went down directly to base camp. We were of course a bit tired but we recover rapidly and now we are ready for the second round. In fact tomorrow the sherpas will return to C2 carrying all the equipment for Camp 3 and we will follow them 1 day later to spend 2 more nights at C2. It is still impossible to go to C3 because there are no fix ropes and the other expedition are proceeding with different time except our russian friend that are in our same point…

Aldo nell

04/16/2010
Già installato e pernottato a Campo 2

La spedizione procede a passo spedito. Dopo aver installato il campo base e svolto la cerimonia buddista Pusha, è arrivato finalmente il momento dell’azione sulla montagna. Il giorno 13 mattina, sfruttando l’accurato acclimatamento svolto nelle 3 settimane precedenti, lungo la valle del Khumbu, con ripetute puntate a quote di 6180 (Island peak), 5680 (Khala pattar), 5800 (Pumori C1), siamo andati direttamente a campo 2 dell’Everest in 7 ore, installato due tende, e pernottato a quota 6400 m. Insieme ad una coppia di alpinisti russi siamo stati i primi a installare quel campo ed a passarci la notte. Non si può dire che sia stata una notte di sonno beato e sogni d’oro, ma comunque abbiamo passato la notte senza particolari malesseri o emicrania. Il giorno successivo in circa 3,5 ore siamo rientrati direttamente al Campo base. Ovviamente la fatica si è fatta sentire ma il recupero è stato veloce e completo. Domani i nostri sherpa porteranno a campo due il materiale necessario per attrezzare campo 3 a 7300 m e noi li seguiremo il giorno dopo per passare altre due notti a Campo due. Il Campo 3 infatti non è ancora raggiungibile perchè nessuno ha ancora attrezzato quel tratto di salita. I tempi con cui le varie spedizioni si muovono sono infatti molto diversi ….

Verso C2

Tomorrow Camp 2

Base Camp


Tomorrow Camp 2 – 04/12/2010
Last rest day in Base Camp. The 80% of the mountaineers are already here and it easy to feel the rumors of this small village at the base of Mount Everest. Tomorrow we plan to go directly to Camp 2 and spend the night there. For that reason today we prepared all the necessary equipment. There will be 1000 vertical meter to climb because Camp 2 is located at 6350 m. We feel that the 6200 m of Island peak we climbed 10 days ago, the 5800 m of Pumori C1 climbed 3 days ago, the 5650 Of Kala Pattar we went yesterday, together with the 20 days we spent in the Khumbu Valley, will be helpful to reach C2 and stay there without big problems.

Aldo up the Kala Pattar


Domani C2 – 12/04/2010
Ultimo giorno al Campo Base. L’80% degli alpinisti è ormai arrivato al Campo Base e si avvertono i rumori che animano questo piccolo villaggio alla base dell’Everest. Domani saliremo per la prima volta sui fianchi della montagna e proveremo ad andare direttamente a Campo 2 a 6350 metri, esattamente 1000 metri più in alto del Campo base. Oggi abbiamo preparato tutti i materiale necessari per installare il campo e per passarci anche la notte. Mal di testa ed un po’ di nausea saranno assicurati ma per adattarci alle alte quote non c’è alternativa. Speriamo che la salita ai quasi 6200 metri dell’Island Peak, dei 5800 del Campo 1 del Pumori, i 5650 del Kala Pattar salito ieri ed i 20 giorni di permanenza in quota ci aiutino ad affrontare al meglio la salita di domani.

Simone and Aldo up the Kala Pattar

Chhukung 4780 m

Cho La Team


04/01/2010
Today we arrived in Chhukung 4780 m located between the south face of Lhotse, the north face of Ama Dablam and Island Peak. We feel very good and for tomorrow we planned to go till the summit of Chhukung Ri 5555 m and come back to the lodge we based. The day after we will move to the Island Peak BC, we will set our tends and we will climb the peak the day after.

Everest & Lhotse


01/04/2010
Eccoci arrivati a Chhukung 4780 m tra la parete sud del Lhotse, la nord dell’Ama Dablam e l’Island peak. Stiamo ancora tutti bene e per domani abbiamo pianificato la salite del Chhukung Ri 5555m con rientro pomeridiano al Lodge in cui siamo alloggiati. Il giorno successivo andremo al campo base dell’Island Peak dove installeremo le tende e ci prepareremo alla salita in vetta il giorno successivo.

Ama Dablam - Kang Lemo

Third day in the Khumbu Valley.

Simone Moro

We spent 3 days in Kathmandu organizing the expedition, than flown to Phakding 2610 m by Helicopter due the two days cancellation of the regular flight to Lukla. Yesterday we trek to Nanche 3500 m and today we get an acclimatization walk till 400 m on the hill above Syangboche before to return in Namche again. Today we also prepared and separated the equipment that will go directly to base camp and the other that will follow us during the trekking and Island peak climb. Tamara, Aldo and I feel good. Also Alberto Magliano join the trekking but he will be back to Kathmandu after the first week of April because he has to go to Shisha Pangma.

Tamara, Aldo and Alberto

Terzo giorno nella valle del Khumbu.

Dopo 3 giorni passati a Kathmandu a preparare tutti i materiali e a svolgere la parte burocratica della spedizione, l’altro ieri siamo finalmente arrivati direttamente al villaggio di Phakding 2610 m in elicottero da Kathmandu. Non ci è stato infatti possibile prendere il volo a Lukla a causa della cancellazione di tutti i voli che si è protratta per due giorni. Ieri siamo abbiamo effettuato la prima tratta a piedi raggiungendo Namche 3500 metri, il villaggio degli sherpa.

Aldo and Dawa

Oggi giornata di acclimatamento con salita verso i 4000 metri del belvedere sopra Syangboche con rientro a Namche in mattinata . Abbiamo  effettuato la prima tratta a piedi raggiungendo Namche 3500 metri, il villaggio degli sherpa. Oggi giornata di acclimatamento con salita verso i 4000 metri del belvedere sopra Syangboche con rientro a Namche in mattinata . Abbiamo poi preparato e diviso i materiali per il campo base dell’Everest e quelli che invece ci seguiranno durante i prossimi giorni di trekking con salita all’Island Peak. Aldo e Tamara stanno bene. Anche Alberto Magliano sta bene e si è unito a noi per questa prima parte di acclimatamento prima del suo rientro a Kathmandu e trasferimento al campo base del Shisha Pangma in Tibet.

LHOTSE-EVEREST 2010, Simone back to Himalaya

This long post is the presentation of Simone new expedition to Himalaya. You will find here below all the details of the great expedition he is about to start, and that this blog will follow day by day, with images, videos, and live broadcast from the heights of the most important mountain in the world.

THE GREAT CROSSING

Simone Moro setting up Manfrotto equipment

At 8,848 meters, Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world; it stands out against the clear and ice cold skies of the Himalayas. Mount Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world (8,516 meters) and is the only giant mountain that flanks the great “roof of the world,” Mount Everest. At 8,000 meters, the south col is the place where the two mountains physically touch each other and form a large terrace over the emptiness below. For years it has been the dream of many climbers to climb either one of mountains. Now that this dream has been realized, there are still very few mountaineers who dare to attempt these mountains without oxygen and sherpas. The climbers’ newest dream is to think of climbing both mountains by crossing the south peak that bridges the two. Or to climb the mountains separately in two different and separate attempts but in the same season, in the same expedition.

For almost 30 years people have been talking about this project. Since the mid-80’s this climb has been seen as the ultimate challenge for the sport. In all of the years of the sport of climbing, no one has ever even attempted this crossing; not even with the aid of oxygen and sherpas. It is fitting that fulfilling this goal should be a project of the third millenium and taking advantage of different techniques, knowledge and approaches then those that have been available in the past.

Everest and Lhotse from an air baloon

APRIL-MAY 2010

It will be in the first part of the year that an Italian adventurer will attempt those climbs. It is not yet decided if Simone will climb Everest going back to Base camp and than attempt Lhotse along a new route or if he will be attracted in attempting the traverse…..

One man, without oxygen, will try to make a path from the base camp in Nepal to the peak of Everest, passing through the south col that connects the two mountains at 8000 meters and than 8 immediately or after 1 week along a new route) on to the peak of Lhotse. This would be a performance to stretch the range of human possibilities; it will oblige the mountaineer to an active performance of at least 4 days without oxygen above 8000 meters where biological and physical vital functions degenerate and risk stopping. It is with good reason that doctors and researchers refer to this extreme area of the mountain as the “death zone,” because any kind of permanent life is impossible.

The challenge isn’t against the mountain (which is always the victor) but is against the present limits of human endurance on earth. A simple but rigorous athletic approach will be followed: no artificial oxygen, no medicine and/or stimulants, no external help from sherpas, respect for life and the life of others, respect for the environment and willingness to deal with possible athletic defeat.

THE MOUNTAINEERS

42 year old Italian Simone Moro is a professional climber who has had completed 43 climbing expeditions outside of Europe and all of them on his own. Simone explains that his “choice to go it alone was motivated by the tragic loss of his friend and climbing partner Anatoli Boukreev in 1997, and by the impossibility of finding another companion like him.” Extreme climbing speed and staunch determination will be the two fundamental characteristics for the success of this project. Simone will limit the materials and loads he carries to the essential needs of a single person.

The mountaineer estimated a 35% possibility of successfully completing his mission and he will try to organize an effective communication plan to document and communicate during the expedition and especially the crossing.

A satellite telephone and modem, THURAYA and IMMARSAT, will enable Simone to transmit the log of the expedition in real time. Radio and TV coverage is being considered in order to allow climbing enthusiasts to follow his progress. Modern portable communication instruments would make direct contact with Simone possible at the same moment as he reaches the peaks of the two mountains.

Thanks to the experience gained from many years in the Himalayas, Simone managed to organize the eventual filming of his whole crossing. The mountaineer will climb Everest at first and than will descend to the south col at 8000 meters. The day after Simone will try to cross to the Lhotse peak descending along the normal route. The whole event will be recorded live with the benefit of a portable PC and digital camera and it will be able to be followed to any web site and TV

Expedition Map

PREPARATION AND RESEARCH

The 2010 Lhotse-Everest expedition will also and above all be an opportunity to deepen the sciences of athletic preparation and high altitudes. Contrary to a simple analytic approach of studying how the basic human body functions when passively exposed at high altitude, or even a climber who is immobile at high altitudes, the idea will be to analyze the highest level of an elite athlete’s performance (in this case where Simone reaches the peaks).

TECHNICAL ANALYSIS OF THE CLIMB

Simone’s initial idea is to climb Everest without oxygen, guiding a friend/client till the summit of Everest. Then they will return to the last camp at south col 8000 meter where 2 Sherpa and Denis Urubko will assist them. Only in that moment Simone will take the decision to continue alone traversing and climbing Lhotse or coming back all together to base camp. In this case Simone and Denis will take a full week rest and than will attempt a new route in alpine style on Lhotse.

Is important to know that the N.E. ridge of Lhotse ( from south col to summit of Lhotse) no one has ever attempted the ascent from this direction. Simone has been on the Lhotse teice and Everest three times before.

Before the crossing attempt, Simone want to begin to acclimatize himself by making a series of high altitude camps. In fact, he will climb up to 8000 meters at the south peak where he wants to spend the night in order to acclimate his body to the stress of the 8000 meters and to try out his medical equipment and assorted technical tools. After this trial phase Simone will make the real attempt on the 2 giants.

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