Biography

Simone Moro was born in 1967. He is an Alpine guide, athlete, federal instructor and was, from 1992-1996, the trainer of Italy national sport climbing team (F.A.S.I.). He has been climbing since the age of thirteen, and today he does it full time as an alpine expedition climber of the world’s highest mountains (Himalayas, Karakorum, Thien Shan, Pamir, Andes, Patagonia, and Antartica). He realized 40 climbing expeditions and 10 of them in winter!!!

Simone during Makalu Winter 2008-2009

The first big success for Simone Moro was the 8516m climb up Lhoste in 1994 in only 13 hours (17 hours in total) leaving from 6330m. The way was finished some meters below the summit due to bad weather and snow drifts. Another important achievement was the combined 8b-8000m in one calendar year (1994). What is more, the climbing difficulty (8b) and the way up from one mountain to the other’s 8000m summit were without oxygen.
To be able to have the technical and physical qualities needed to move through such varying terrains and to have done it in the same season is an achievement few (maybe no one) up to now have accomplished.

December 1997 was Simone’s first attempt at the southern wall of Annapurna in Winter. During that circumstance, his companion Anatoli Boukreev had a fatal accident, swept away by an avalanche. The 45 minute-video by Simone Moro is the story of his way of doing alpinism and his approach towards life after that tragic accident. The images will show some of the fourteen peaks exceeding 8000m of height, described by the world’s physiologists as the “death zone”, beyond which survival is humanly possible only for a few interminable, freezing hours…

Simone Moro at Broad Peak 2009

Simone has received the prestigious David Sowles from the American Alpine Club. He received the above recognition and awards for an extreme rescue he made alone, climbing without oxygen and reaching the 8000m on the 8516m wall of Lhoste. Interrupting his climb and risking his own life, Simone looked for, found and carried English alpinist Tom Moores to safety.

In the last years Simone realised four historical climbs: the new route on the north-west face of Baruntse North 7056 m (named also Khali Himal), the first ever winter climb of Shisha Pangma 8027m along the south face,the first solo taverse south/north of Everest 8848 m, the first climb of the virgin peak Beka Brakai Chhok attempted several time from different teams and finally the recent first winter climb of Makalu in alpine style together with Denis Urubko. It had been a success after 30 years of attempt realized by all the most famous alpinist in the world!!!

“Even if your motivation is complex and individual, my idea of alpinism is like many others. I practice alpinism like others who have decided to understand the actual activity not as the aim of life but as the way to discover and love life. Climbing the world’s mountains is a way to discover culture, populations and the problems facing them all over the world. Climbing is also a way to discover one’s personal limits, techniques and psychology. It is a way to become aware of the limits that one can overcome with determination, motivation and training. At bottom, these are the same qualities that motivate people to change their environment at work or adjust and better their emotional and/or social life. So if individuals are moved by the same stimuli, although in different directions, isn’t it time to stop calling alpine climbers crazy!?”

Simone at Broad Peak 2009

MOUNTAINEERING, ACHIEVEMENTS
2010
Crowned 2009 European Adventurer of the Year in Sweden

2009
9th February First winter ascent of Makalu 8.485 m with Denis Urubko.

2008
First ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok 6.940 m (Pakistan) in pure alpine style and in 43 hours only go/back
Climbed Batokshi peak 6.050 m (Pakistan) in Alpine style and in 9 hours only
Attempt the first winter climb of Broad Peak 8.047 m. Stopped at 7.840 m

2007
Attempt the first winter climb of Broad Peak 8.047 m. Stopped at 7.100m

2006
20th May Everest 8.850. First solo south-north traverse. Summit at 3.15 a.m. and descent to base camp in 5 hours only

2005
14th January Shisha Pangma south face. First ever winter climb to the summit 8.027 m along the Yugoslavian route. Historical climb!!!!
Climbed Batokshi Peak 6.050 m (Pakistan) in Alpine style

2004
Shisha Pangma south face in winter 8.027 m First climb of the face and Figueras- Permane route. Summit NON reached for 300 meters only.
4th May new route on north face of Baruntse nord 7.066 m

2003
The 9th January receive from UNESCO the Pierre de Cubertin Trophy and the gold medal from Italian President Azeglio Ciampi (for rescue 2001).
Rock climbed routes of 5.13d / 5.14a in Spain and Italy.
24th april climbed kilimanjaro 5.895 – Tanzania
22nd june open a new route on Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. Summit not reached.
15th July climbed Broad Peak 8.047 m in 29 hours.
25th September climbed Elbrus 5.642 m in 3 hours and 40 minutes

2002
25th Decembre Vinson 4.897 m Antartica
9th May Cho Oyu 8.201 mt in 10,30 hours!
24th May Everest 8.850 m from north side. Descent in 4,40 minutes!

2001
Apri-May Attempt to Everest-Lhotse traverse. Stopper the climb to rescue english climber serously injured. Winner for the David A. Sowles award from American Alpine Club
February first winter climb of Marble wall 6.400 mt in Thien Shan

2000
April-May climbed Everest 8.850. Summit. 5 days without oxigen over 8000!

1999
July-August climbed Pik Lenin 7.134, Pik Korjenevska 7.105, Pik Kommunism 7.495, Pik Khan Tengri 7.010. It is the second time of all time someone do it!

1998
October Everest 8.848 north ridge, reached 8.200 mt.- bad weather.

1997
December Annapurna 8.091 south face. Avalanche accident at 6.300 mt.
May 26, Lhotse 8.516 meters. Summit.
January, climbed extreme ice falls of grade M8

1996
October 11, Shisha Pangma, 8.008 meters, N.Summit
May, Dhaulagiri 8.167 mt, stopped at 7.200 mt, bad weather.
February 1, Fitz Roy 3.441, Speed ascent G/B 25 hours, W: Face

1995
April, Kancghenjunga 8.596 meters, stopped 7.600 mt, bad weather

1994
October 11, Lhotse 8.516 meters, Speed ascent from 6.300 mt, 17 hours
September, Shisha Pangma 8.013 meters, stopped 7.400 mt, avalanche.
Climbed route in Italy of 5.13c ( 8b ) difficult.

1993
August 13, Aconcagua 6.962, Winter Speed ascent, 13 hours. Before tried
the south face and stopped at 6.200 mt, avalange.
Juli 25, Cerro Mirador 6.089. Winter new Route and speed Ascent N.Face
October, Makalu 8.463, Solo ascent stopped at 8.300 mt, Kukuczka route.

1992
October, Everest 8.848, stopped at 7.400 mt.
Become Coach of Italian rock climbing team.

1985 -1992
Professional climber in the Italian Rock climbing Federation. Between 1987 and 1989 climbed more than 30 route of 8a and 8b+ (5.13a / 5.14a).

1980
Began Mountainering in Alps.

Simone's Tent

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