LHOTSE-EVEREST 2010, Simone back to Himalaya

This long post is the presentation of Simone new expedition to Himalaya. You will find here below all the details of the great expedition he is about to start, and that this blog will follow day by day, with images, videos, and live broadcast from the heights of the most important mountain in the world.


Simone Moro setting up Manfrotto equipment

At 8,848 meters, Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world; it stands out against the clear and ice cold skies of the Himalayas. Mount Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world (8,516 meters) and is the only giant mountain that flanks the great “roof of the world,” Mount Everest. At 8,000 meters, the south col is the place where the two mountains physically touch each other and form a large terrace over the emptiness below. For years it has been the dream of many climbers to climb either one of mountains. Now that this dream has been realized, there are still very few mountaineers who dare to attempt these mountains without oxygen and sherpas. The climbers’ newest dream is to think of climbing both mountains by crossing the south peak that bridges the two. Or to climb the mountains separately in two different and separate attempts but in the same season, in the same expedition.

For almost 30 years people have been talking about this project. Since the mid-80’s this climb has been seen as the ultimate challenge for the sport. In all of the years of the sport of climbing, no one has ever even attempted this crossing; not even with the aid of oxygen and sherpas. It is fitting that fulfilling this goal should be a project of the third millenium and taking advantage of different techniques, knowledge and approaches then those that have been available in the past.

Everest and Lhotse from an air baloon


It will be in the first part of the year that an Italian adventurer will attempt those climbs. It is not yet decided if Simone will climb Everest going back to Base camp and than attempt Lhotse along a new route or if he will be attracted in attempting the traverse…..

One man, without oxygen, will try to make a path from the base camp in Nepal to the peak of Everest, passing through the south col that connects the two mountains at 8000 meters and than 8 immediately or after 1 week along a new route) on to the peak of Lhotse. This would be a performance to stretch the range of human possibilities; it will oblige the mountaineer to an active performance of at least 4 days without oxygen above 8000 meters where biological and physical vital functions degenerate and risk stopping. It is with good reason that doctors and researchers refer to this extreme area of the mountain as the “death zone,” because any kind of permanent life is impossible.

The challenge isn’t against the mountain (which is always the victor) but is against the present limits of human endurance on earth. A simple but rigorous athletic approach will be followed: no artificial oxygen, no medicine and/or stimulants, no external help from sherpas, respect for life and the life of others, respect for the environment and willingness to deal with possible athletic defeat.


42 year old Italian Simone Moro is a professional climber who has had completed 43 climbing expeditions outside of Europe and all of them on his own. Simone explains that his “choice to go it alone was motivated by the tragic loss of his friend and climbing partner Anatoli Boukreev in 1997, and by the impossibility of finding another companion like him.” Extreme climbing speed and staunch determination will be the two fundamental characteristics for the success of this project. Simone will limit the materials and loads he carries to the essential needs of a single person.

The mountaineer estimated a 35% possibility of successfully completing his mission and he will try to organize an effective communication plan to document and communicate during the expedition and especially the crossing.

A satellite telephone and modem, THURAYA and IMMARSAT, will enable Simone to transmit the log of the expedition in real time. Radio and TV coverage is being considered in order to allow climbing enthusiasts to follow his progress. Modern portable communication instruments would make direct contact with Simone possible at the same moment as he reaches the peaks of the two mountains.

Thanks to the experience gained from many years in the Himalayas, Simone managed to organize the eventual filming of his whole crossing. The mountaineer will climb Everest at first and than will descend to the south col at 8000 meters. The day after Simone will try to cross to the Lhotse peak descending along the normal route. The whole event will be recorded live with the benefit of a portable PC and digital camera and it will be able to be followed to any web site and TV

Expedition Map


The 2010 Lhotse-Everest expedition will also and above all be an opportunity to deepen the sciences of athletic preparation and high altitudes. Contrary to a simple analytic approach of studying how the basic human body functions when passively exposed at high altitude, or even a climber who is immobile at high altitudes, the idea will be to analyze the highest level of an elite athlete’s performance (in this case where Simone reaches the peaks).


Simone’s initial idea is to climb Everest without oxygen, guiding a friend/client till the summit of Everest. Then they will return to the last camp at south col 8000 meter where 2 Sherpa and Denis Urubko will assist them. Only in that moment Simone will take the decision to continue alone traversing and climbing Lhotse or coming back all together to base camp. In this case Simone and Denis will take a full week rest and than will attempt a new route in alpine style on Lhotse.

Is important to know that the N.E. ridge of Lhotse ( from south col to summit of Lhotse) no one has ever attempted the ascent from this direction. Simone has been on the Lhotse teice and Everest three times before.

Before the crossing attempt, Simone want to begin to acclimatize himself by making a series of high altitude camps. In fact, he will climb up to 8000 meters at the south peak where he wants to spend the night in order to acclimate his body to the stress of the 8000 meters and to try out his medical equipment and assorted technical tools. After this trial phase Simone will make the real attempt on the 2 giants.



  1. Ehila campione!!!
    Quì è nevicato fino a 800m, e io…. a letto!!!

    Voi spero tutto bene.


    Ute, Eugene & Mirko

  2. dear simon,
    i was reading about yout next expedition and i get really impressed about wthat you are going to do, and also about the story of your previoysly trip on 2001. You are a big equip with Dennis, and also show to the others a kind of way to reach mountains so different from the “commercial” expeditions…..thank you…
    From Barcelona I really pray some “puyas” for the exit of your expedition with Denis, let’s have hope and a lot of power!!!!

    from a climber who live mountains


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